As the dog days of summer are in full swing and the hours of daylight are nearly twice what they were during the winter months, it is the perfect time to push the limits of a day trip. So turn up the tunes, pack many snacks, and switch the AC on for this next Backyard Adventure.
We are turning the vehicle to the southeastern part of our state to the area around Breezewood, PA. Now, there are many ways to get to this next destination and I would suggest exploring your options a bit. For the history buffs, a journey down Route 30 may be just the ticket with a stop in Ligonier for a tour of Fort Ligonier and the wonderful museum. For others who like nature, take the opportunity to visit one of the many State Parks that dot the Laurel Highlands. Keep your eyes open for some of the many different roadside attractions including quaint antique shops, spectacular views and sweet treats from a mom and pop ice cream stop. It truly is a land which time seems to move a little slower. Now, if you are a person who prefers to just get where you are going, then you can always hop on the PA Turnpike near Cranberry and take the Breezewood exit.
Where might we be going you ask? Breezewood is just a place to stop and get gas on your way to someplace else, filled with souvenirs and fast food- or is it? One of the best known stops on the current Pennsylvania Turnpike, it is often the Gateway for many in our area to popular destinations such as Washington DC, the Outer Banks, Ocean City and many other coastal destinations. Many of you may have stopped or know someone who has. What you may not have known, is that the current ramp system from the PA Turnpike is not the way it was in the early years. In fact, there is an entire section of the Turnpike just outside of town that was completely abandoned and it even includes two tunnels that you can walk or ride a bike through. Sound interesting? Let me give you a bit of the history so you know what makes this area so unique. Back in the late 1800’s the railroads were the state of the art transportation system and William Vanderbilt wanted to build a railway linking Pittsburgh and Philadelphia. It had an estimated cost of 16 million dollars and 5 years to complete, but in 1885 when the five years were up, only 40% of the line was completed and over 10 million of the budget was spent the project was terminated. This was the first time these tunnels were abandoned and this whole ordeal has gone down in history as Vanderbilt’s Folly.
Coming out of the Great Depression the Pennsylvania Turnpike idea was born to facilitate automobile transportation across the mountain areas in the state of PA. Using the 7 abandoned tunnels started by Vanderbilt, the first section of the PA Turnpike, dubbed “The Road of the Future”, was opened on October 1st, 1940. This was the first limited access toll road in the United States and is the predecessor for all the other Turnpikes and Toll Roads we have today. When the road originally opened, there were no posted speed limits, except for the tunnels which was 35mph and it was similar to the German Autobahn. Speeds in excess of 90 mph were traveled and so in 1941 a speed limit was posted of 70mph. Let’s think about that for just a moment, 90 miles per hour in your grandparents/parents 1940’s Chevy- tell me that was not a wild ride! Over the course of its history the Turnpike has had multiple decreases and increases in its speed limit, and in recent years has come full circle back to its original posted speed limit of 70mph.
The road, also named “the Tunnel Highway” was extremely popular and immediately there were bottleneck issues at each of the 7 portals where the four lanes of traffic had to condense to two lanes in order to enter the tunnel. The idea came about to “twin” the tunnels to add the additional lanes and keep the traffic flow moving. It was determined that the Rays Hill, Sideling Hill and Laurel Hill Tunnels were not cost effective to twin and in 1968 two sections and three tunnels were abandoned for the second time. The Laurel Hill Tunnel is in a section of Turnpike that was bypassed located in Westmoreland County near the town of Donegal and is reportedly under private lease to the Chip Ganassi Racing Team for aerodynamic testing on race cars. It is all quite hush hush and getting actual current information on the tunnel is difficult. One thing is certain, it is private property and not accessible to the public.
The Rays Hill Tunnel, which was the shortest tunnel in the original Turnpike and the Sideling Hill Tunnel, which was the longest as well as the 8.5 miles of roadway that was bypassed near Breezewood are on property that is now part of the Pike to Bike Trail. The Cove Valley Service Plaza was also abandoned as part of the bypass.
There are two trailheads to this bike/hike path but the easiest trail access without climbing a hill with loose gravel is located off Pump Station Rd. From Breezewood, you will travel about 7.5 miles on US 30 East and make a left turn onto Pump Station Rd. Travel approximately 3 miles until you see a parking lot and the beginning of the trail.
If you bring your bikes, which I highly suggest because it is a fantastic way to travel this trail, you will want to be aware of a few things. First, there are not facilities located nearby, so make sure you have any water or snacks with you and use the restrooms in Breezewood prior to heading out of town. Second, the trail is unimproved, it is a section of roadway that was abandoned in the late 60’s and nature is doing its best to reclaim the area. The roadway is broken and cracked so bikes with wider tires fair much better than a 10 speed racing bike. Third thing to keep in mind is the tunnels are VERY dark, once inside you will not be able to see the other end so you will need a light in order to see where you are going. They are also about 55° so keep that in mind if you are a cold blooded person.
As you begin your journey on this almost post apocalyptic looking stretch of roadway you may recognize the scenery if you watched the 2009 movie The Road which was filmed in part here as well as our very own Conneaut Lake Park. On your route from the parking lot in about .3 miles you will see a large parking lot to your right with an island of trees. This is the Cove Valley Travel Plaza and the trees are growing up in the former foundation of the Howard Johnson’s Service Center. These centers were located along the Turnpike prior to the onset of the fast food restaurants we have now.
Traveling about 1 mile father and you are at the entrance to the first tunnel, Sideline Hill Tunnel, and the longest tunnel on the former Turnpike. This tunnel is 1.28 miles long and the grade is curved up in the center for drainage so you definitely can not see the other end. It does not take long before you are surrounded by complete darkness.
Fun Fact, supposedly the legendary creature the Windego lives in these tunnels. For those who do not know, the Windego is an Algonquin legend of a creature who has an insatiable taste for human flesh. This fact was not known to me while I was in the center of the tunnel by myself with the echos of each water drop or rock my tire sent flying sounding like something was behind me. Pretty sure nothing like a cannibal big foot creature would inspire one to pedal faster.
Next up is the Rays Hill Tunnel even though this tunnel is about half the length of the previous tunnel you will still need a light as you plunge into the cool darkness. Once you have emerged on the other side of Rays Hill you are just a little over a mile from completing the entire 8.5 miles of the Abandoned PA Turnpike. You will see places that have reflectors installed into the pavement or the line rumble strips that are found on many of today’s modern highways, this is where they were tested prior to installation.
Hopefully you enjoyed your journey through an important piece of American history. As always and until next time, in the words of the great JRR Tolkien “Not all those who wander are lost”
